In this complete travel guide, Sofía Kristiansen takes you through every layer of the city: the Zwinger and the Semperoper, the Frauenkirche with its British-made cross of reconciliation, the Gemäldegalerie where Raphael's Sistine Madonna hangs in its original scale, the astonishing Green Vault treasury, the creative Neustadt neighborhood on the opposite bank, the Saxon Switzerland national park with its Caspar David Friedrich landscapes, the Meissen porcelain tradition, the GDR legacy and the Stasi memorial, and the Saxon cuisine built on Stollen, Sauerbraten, and Quark. Dresden rose twice from the ashes. This guide helps you understand what that means.