In this complete travel guide, Sofía Kristiansen takes you through every layer of the city: the extraordinary Cappella Palatina and the UNESCO Arab-Norman monuments, the three street markets — Ballarò, Vucciria, and the Capo — and the sfincione, panelle, and arancini sold from their carts, the Mafia history and the remarkable anti-Mafia civic movement that followed it, the baroque churches and their Serpotta stucco interiors, the day trips to Monreale, Cefalù, and Segesta, and the coastal reserves and beaches of western Sicily. Palermo does not cohere into a single image. It accumulates, layer by layer, civilization by civilization — and what it leaves behind is unforgettable.