In this complete travel guide, Sofía Kristiansen takes you beyond the famous view to everything that makes Heidelberg worth more than a day: the oldest university in Germany and six centuries of intellectual tradition, the baroque old town with its student prison whose walls are covered with two hundred years of academic graffiti, the Neckar valley and the Odenwald hiking trails above it, the Baden cuisine built on white asparagus and Pinot Noir, the Palatinate wine country forty minutes west, and the day trips to Mannheim, Schwetzingen, and the Black Forest. The ruin is beautiful. This guide shows you what surrounds it.