Nice belongs to the Mediterranean culture that France and Italy share across a border twenty kilometers east of the city, and everything about it — the ochre facades, the baroque churches, the dialect, the food — reflects this productive ambiguity. The city that the English aristocracy made their winter destination in the nineteenth century, where Matisse spent the last thirty-seven years of his life chasing the light, and where Yves Klein found the blue he would name after himself, is also the city where the socca vendor sets up beside the Cours Saleya flower market each morning and where the salade Niçoise has never once included a cooked vegetable.
In this complete travel guide, Sofía Kristiansen takes you through every layer of the city: the Promenade des Anglais and the Baie des Anges, the Vieille Ville with its baroque churches and its morning market, the Matisse Museum and the Chagall Museum on the Cimiez hill, the Niçard cuisine built on chickpea flour and olive oil and the Mediterranean pantry, Monaco and Villefranche to the east, Cannes and Antibes to the west, and the Alpes-Maritimes hinterland rising from the coast to three thousand meters within an hour's drive. The light is real. This guide helps you find it.
Nice belongs to the Mediterranean culture that France and Italy share across a border twenty kilometers east of the city, and everything about it — the ochre facades, the baroque churches, the dialect, the food — reflects this productive ambiguity. The city that the English aristocracy made their...